South America - Peru Inka Sacred Valley, sites visited

Others - Visited

CUZCO

CUZCO - Inka Sacred Valley
Peru, Jun 2010.

KORICANCHA

KORICANCHA - Inka Sacred Valley
Peru, Jun 2010.

SACSAHUAMAN

SACSAHUAMAN - Inka Sacred Valley
Peru, Jun 2010.

VITCOS / YURAK RUMI

YURAK RUMI - Inka Sacred Valley
Peru, Jun 2010.

Q'ENQO

Q'ENQO - Inka Sacred Valley
Peru, Jun 2010.

PUKA PUKARA

PUKA PURAKA - Inka Sacred Valley
Peru, Jun 2010.

TAMBOMACHAY

TAMBOMACHAY - Inka Sacred Valley
Peru, Jun 2010.

CHINCHERO

CHINCHERO - Inka Sacred Valley
Peru, Jun 2010.

OLLANTAYTAMBO

OLLANTAYTAMBO - Inka Sacred Valley
Peru, Jun 2010.

Others - Not Visited

CHOQUEQUIRAO

PISAC

MORAY

TIPON

PIKILLAQTA

HUCHUY CUZCO

ISLA DEL SOL

South America - Peru Inka Trail, the 13 Inka sites

Site 01.  PISKAKUCHU (SALAPUNKU)
***I saw it, across Rio Urubamba at the far side, not much left to capture in a photo.
Site 02.  Q'ANABAMBA

Q'ANABAMBA - Inka Trail
Peru, Jun 2010.

Site 03.  WILLKARAKAY 

***I saw it, too far even with a zoom lens of 300mm. 

Site 04.  Q'ENTIMARKA (PATALLAQTA) or LLAQTAPATA

Q'ENTIMARKA - Inka Trail
Peru, Jun 2010.

Site 05.  PATAWASI

PATAWASI - Inka Trail
Peru, Jun 2010.

Site 06.  RUNKURAQAY

RUNKURAQAY - Inka Trail
Peru, Jun 2010.

Site 07.  SAYAQMARKA - one of the most important sites and many of the ceremonial rituals are found in this site.

SAYAQMARKA - Inka Trail
Peru, Jun 2010.

Site 08.  QONCHAMARCA

QONCHAMARCA - Inka Trail
Peru, Jun 2010.

Site 09.  PHUYUPATAMARKA

PHUYUPATAMARKA - Inka Trail
Peru, Jun 2010.

Site 10.  YUNKAPATA (INTIPATA)

YUNKAPATA / INTIPATA - Inka Trail
Peru, Jun 2010.

Site 11.  WINAYWAYNA - my favourite site as it is so beautiful at both sunrise or sunset.

WINAYWAYNA - Inka Trail
Peru, Jun 2010.

Site 12.  INTIPUNKU (SUNGATE)

INTIPINKU - Inka Trail
Peru, Jun 2010.

Site 13.  MACHU PICCHU

MACHU PICCHU - Inka Trail
Peru, Jun 2010.

South America - Argentina Bariloche, Switzerland another

I have never been to Switzerland, not qualified in saying which  or what is the same.  But for all the Brazilian and Argentinean who came here to enjoy the weather, which was a lot, they thought so.

San Carlos de Bariloche, or short name as Bariloche, got its name from Vuriloche meaning "people from behind the mountain".  This city has all the elements like Switzerland - the architectural development, the alpine, the ski resorts, the St.Bernard dogs and the chocolate.  Yes, even the chocolate! The Bariloche chocolate is especially famous for Argentinean who loves sweet.

For all that, there are two things I would like to remember Bariloche for - the meat and the lake!

Why the meat? It is because I never had so much meat in my life than at Bariloche. For every city that I travelled 3-4 days, I normally will ask the hostal to recommend a nice restaurant to have at least one nice meal for the city.  And in Bariloche, I went to Familia Weiss, a restaurant famous for its vension and trout.  The setting was warming.

Table setting in Familia Weiss, Bariloche
Argentina, Apr 2010.

I was quite ignorant still, at that time, of the size of serving for a meal of meat.  I ordered a lamb steak and it turned out, in my opinion, to be able to serve a whole family.

Lamb steak in Familia Weiss, Bariloche
Argentina, Apr 2010.

There were at least 8oz of meat here.  And there and then, I finally understood what meant by my Argentinean friend that they eat a lot of meat.  The food there was delicious.  The salad I ordered is called Summer Holiday, even though it was almost winter already when I visited.

Salad Summer Holiday in Familia Weiss, Bariloche
Argentina, Apr 2010.

It was the best salad ever I have had.  Avocado, strawberry, mandarine oranges and vine tomatoes made up a Summer Holiday.
Another reason why I have to talk about Familia Weiss, is the service.  While I had very good food in Buenos Aires and Ushuaia, the service there had not made me felt the warm welcoming feeling. While in Familia Weiss, they treated me as every other customer who came to Bariloche for a nice holiday.  They drew people back to Bariloche.

Bariloche is on the southern shore of Nahuel Huapi Lake surrounded by Nahuel Huapi National Park.  The region it is within is called the Lake District for both Argentina and Chile.  The famous "Seven Lakes Route" will take you from Bariloche to San Martin on a beautiful journey. While another lake crossing journey from Bariloche to Puerto Varas in Chile will take you on a 7 cruises plus multiple bus transfers journey, allows you to see the amazing Osorno Volcano on the way.

South America - Argentina Nahuel Huapi, Why is it Black not Blue?

We went to Hosteria Pampa Linda for lunch.  It is a gorgeous place. I and Sarah had a table next to the window, with an open view to the Cerro Tronador.

From http://www.hosteriapampalinda.com.ar/english/servicios-pampa-linda.html#restaurante

The lunch was authentic pumpkin soup, my favourite. I felt much better after a home-make lunch, and recovered from the fatigue and all the restless days.  Sarah was staying here for a couple of days to hike around.  The guide came here to drop her, and the rest of us continued the afternoon to see the relic Black Glacier.  The Black Glacier name is Ventisquero Negro.

Ventisquero Negro, Nahuel Huapi National Park
Argentina, Apr 2010.

Feeding by the ice from the summit of Cerro Tronador, the Black Glacier becomes a huge mass of ice dragging every sediment and mineral along the way sliding down the peak, making it one of the biggest icer tounges around.  The process of melting and freezing is making its composition possible through crystallization of mineral and ice.

Ventisquero Negro, Nahuel Huapi National Park
Argentina, Apr 2010.

Ventisquero Negro, Nahuel Huapi National Park
Argentina, Apr 2010.

The layers in the ice represents the years of crystallization.  Thus, the age of the icer tounge is told by the line in the ice. Similar to the way we look at the age of a tree, the circular line in the log of a lumber is the age of the tree.  In the case below, a very icer tounge had broken off.

Ventisquero Negro, Nahuel Huapi National Park
Argentina, Apr 2010.

As much as we would not want it to happen, the sign of global warming is clearly seen here.  The glacier becomes smaller when its icer tounge broke off and flowed away.

Ventisquero Negro, Nahuel Huapi National Park
Argentina, Apr 2010.

The guide was right! It did take a rainy day without sun to see something as unique as the Black Glacier.

I was tired without word when I was back to the hostal.  Thus, I demanded, for the first time in the journey, to have a room changed and the heater turn on. I slept straight through the night till late morning the next day.

South America - Argentina Nahuel Huapi, Journey to the Black Glacier

I spent a week from trekking Glaciar Perito Moreno to Los Torres del Paine, finishing 1st leg of the journey in 3 weeks.  Subsequently, it was all road trips, 5 hours evening bus from Torres del Paine to El Calafate. A tiring night with a next day flight and another ride, then I arrived Bariloche which is called 'Switzerland of Argentina'.

Exhausted with fatigue, I was pretty unlucky the 1st night to have a dorm-mate who snored ever loudest and it was a hostal that seemed to forget to turn on the heater.  It was freezing cold and I hardly slept.  Without proper rest, I was up early at 4am while the trip to the Nahuel Huapi National Park starting at 7am.

Nahuel Huapi National Park is no strange subject to any Argentinean.  The oldest national park in the country, with the national hero Francisco Moreno donated 75 square kilometres (29 sq mi) of land in the area to the federal government in 1903, Nahuel Huapi is nearly 2 Million Acres in size and surrounds Nahuel Huapi Lake.  In the famous Mapuche language, Nahuel Huapi means 'Jaguar Island'.

My guide is a German descendent.  It seems the population around the lake region in both Argentina and Chile are mainly German descendent. Off we went to pick up a full van of Brazilian (Brazilian loves to visit Bariloche till Argentinean deem Bariloche as Braziloche), and another British navy, Sarah.  As we entered the national park, I noticed that the wall of some of the mountain had marks left by glacier movement.

Nahuel Huapi National Park - Argetntina, Apr 2010.

It shows the ice age of the earth. As our van passed one part of the forest, I saw a hollow pathway through the wood.  It seemed like a tunnel which swept by some heavy objects through the forest.

Nahuel Huapi National Park - Argetntina, Apr 2010.

I asked the guide why the national park just swept and made path like that, and the guide said "It was not us, it was the ice!"  Apparently, this happened almost every spring.  After winter, the water in the mountain built up the ice.  When the ice started to melt in spring, it started to move, then down the hill, sweeping everything along with it!  The guide told me as he comes to the park almost every other day, it happened once the ice was moving down hill and passed right in front of his van, making a sound that he will never forget.  Judging from the photo, the force was tremendous!

We arrived the vista point at the Nahuel Huapi Lake, where we saw the snow capped Cerro Tronador from a distant.

Cerro Tronador, Nahuel Huapi National Park
Argetntina, Apr 2010.

The national park is in the Patagonia Andean Zone, the Altoandino which above 1600 meters will be perpetually covered by snow. The Valvidian RainForest here (and in Chile) is one of the rare and unique rainforest existed to the area.

As we furthered into the national park, we came to a vista point to view the Piuque Huapi, Piuque means 'Heart' in Mapuche. The Heart (shaped) Island was the cover of the national park brochure.  But, the vista point is not high enough that I was not able to capture the island in a heart shaped. However, I would have to say it is beautiful! 

Piuque Huapi, Nahuel Huapi National Park
Argetntina, Apr 2010.

The morning passed by without the sun, the grey cloud moved in and the sky started to have cold drizzle. I was quite down due to lack of sleep.  As I blared out that may be my luck had run out with good weather, the guide turned, smiled and said to me "No, you are in luck today!" I was thinking "Ya, right!" Then, he continued "We can only see the Black Glacier clearly after the rain, without the sun reflection!"

South America - Chile Torres del Paine, we shall meet again.

There are these places, when you see the pictures, you wanted to go; while you are there, you couldn't get enough; as you are leaving, you wanted to come back!

Torres del Paine is one of those places.

For my South America trip, the planning was to go Patagonia first because it seems to be the thirst of all time. I plan in 2 weeks for Patagonia, however, it did seem never enough. As the day I was leaving Torres del Paine, I felt so much that I needed to come back again.

The weather really lives up to its reputation as I woke up with the ground furred with cotton snow.

Refugio Los Torres - Chile, Apr 2010.

There was another occasion when I was at Grand Canyon in Arizona that I had 3 different types of weather in 3 days - cloudy with cold drizzle rain, sunny with cloudless sky, then a snowy day after.

The transport only left in the evening around 4pm.  It meant we (me, a Swiss lady, a father and son from Israel, an Australian woman with a Chileano husband) had a whole day to hang around. There was practically nothing to do in-door in the refugio. Thus, I packed my bag and headed out to the Laguna Amarga junction where I came the first day.  Surprisingly, it seemed Torres del Paine consisted with 2 polar weather.  There was no snow and bright sunny at the other end of the national park. The Guanacos were happily out and enjoying themselves for a nice walk.

Guanacos at Torres del Paine - Chile, Apr 2010.

Using my long zooming lens, I looked backward to the refugio which is near to high ground, I saw Los Cuernos in the distant standing in the snow.

Los Cuernos in Torres del Paine - Chile, Apr 2010.

No doubt in that moment I knew Torres del Paine has became the first to join my South America re-visit list.

As I only spent 3 days here, the 'W' circuit takes 4 to 5 days to hike.  But it will require 2 weeks to do the full circuit in Torres del Paine.

Bringing back good memory, my boss in New York, Rui Lou, had visited Torres del Paine in the summer time of Feb 2008.  With closed to 2 weeks in the park, she had taken some of the photos which inspired the visit.  I can't show all her photos here. Here are some of her photos which relates  the 'Blue' to Torres del Paine in which I had been trying to illustrate.

 Photograph by Rui Lou - Torres del Paine, Chile, Feb 2008.

South America - Chile Torres del Paine, Azul y Gris (Blue and Grey)

I was kind like having a trip that is being a tourist and a backpacker the same time.  After the day tour, I was to stay for two more nights.  My Chileano guide kept asking me - what are you going to do there?

I smile, of course, the plan was to trek up the trail to Mirador Los Torres to see Los Torres - Cleopatra's Needles as described by Lady Florence Dixie. Well, I know I don't exactly look like I am capable of, but I never fail to get to where I wanted to go before ;-).

The guide dropped me off at the junction of Refugio Laguna Amarga after the full day hiking around the national park.  The rest of the 6 visitors were heading back to El Calafate, except me. Due to low season, I had to get my own transportation to Refugio Los Torres in which I ended up paying a local with a whooper USD20.


When I got to the refugio, the day was cloudy and very windy.  It was getting really cold and I didn't really eat for the whole day.  Thus, with other visitors, I decided to have some steak for dinner.  There, on the table, the realization of being a solo travelling Asian Chinese lady had always raised many questions, as my/our capability is always in question!

It was a very very cold night and all the people decided to tuck in early as we all prepared to trek up to see Los Torres the next day. I wanted to start trekking early as 8am so set my alarm at 6.30am.  Little that I forgot Chile is 1 hour earlier than Argentina time and didn't reset my watch, I was up early at 5.30am and didn't feel that bad as I saw a French was up and going at 6am.


After breakfast, I set off for a trek that I had little confidence I would get there as I had heard all the stories about the difficulty in the last hour's scramble up the boulders.  It was a long walk before the ascent starts.  The trail is winding up the valley with medium gradient.  I was alone and it was quiet without any living things around. Then, I saw Los Cuernos around the corner.

Los Cuernos - Torres del Paine
Chile, Apr 2010.

Tehuelche legend has it that the two peaks of Los Cuernos were their two strongest warriors stolen from their tribe by an evil anaconda who caused a huge flood to wipe-out the tribe.  After the flood, the anaconda stole the dead bodies of the two warriors and turned them into the granite spires that made-up Los Cuernos.

Whether it was a legend or not, you can see that it is not important as Los Cuernos are standing straight and high.

Los Cuernos - Torres del Paine
Chile, Apr 2010.

As a national park since 1959 and UNESCO Biosphere Reserve since 1978, Parque Nacional Torres del Paine considerably is still a very young national park.  The government does allow the pre-existing residents who have been there before the declaration stay there since. On my way, the weather lives up to its reputation. It shifted erratically from yesterday cloudy day with drizzling cold rain to cloudless skies in the mid day as I hiked, further to a snowy day the day after, while the only constant being the gusty southerly Patagonia wind.

After 19KM, I was already out-of-breath, out-of-energy and stopping almost every 10mins, out-of-feeling from my toes to my thigh.  But the trail becomes even more difficult that I had to use my hands to scramble up boulders, stopping at every turn to catch my breath. It took me two long hours trek for the last hour of 3KM trail.  At closed to 2pm and 22KM for 6 hours after, I was completely stunned when I started descending to the Mirador Los Torres.

Los Torres - Torres del Paine
Chile, Apr 2010.

I was not prepared to see what I saw - the iconic Los Torres.  For it is the best-known and spectacular summits in this cordillera, the three Towers of Blue - Los Torres del Paine are granite monoliths shaped by the forces of ice glacier.  It is gigantic and makes me look so tiny! They are identified as the South (left), Central (middle) and North (right) Tower of Paine.
Again, I did my usual - sit down and had my lunch.  This time was more than apple+biscuit, the refugio had prepared me a packed lunch with apple, juice and sandwich. It was one hell of a good lunch after the distance and the height that I hiked. I needed that for the energy to get back to the refugio, same distance and same difficulty! But the view there for 30mins was priceless!
Up on the mirador, I saw a skinny guy from Hong Kong, practically running up the whole way.  He asked me to help him to take a picture and less than 2mins he wanted to leave.  I asked why such a rush, he told me he was running the 5 days trail in 2 days to beat the time as his transport was waiting for him at the other end. I was speechless!

I headed back after my lunch.  On the way back, I crossed many hikers coming up late.  It was so cold and all the refugios on this side of the trail were closed and they had to camp.  Some hikers were in really bad shape.  I was so glad I did a day hike.  But the journey back was not any easier, the same distance and the same height winding up and down.  It took me the same amount of time to get back.  By the time I saw my refugio in distant,

Torres del Paine - Chile, Apr 2010.

I had never felt so alone like before as I practically couldn't walk anymore.  I reached where I started around 8pm.  One secret I had is I always bring my favourite Chinese TeDaJaiu (Wood Lock Oil) everywhere I go.  I used quite a lot that night as I couldn't feel my legs completely.

For once I wonder - should I explain why the post title is Azul y Gris.  The park consists of hectares of subpolar forest, however, you will see two colours - Azul y Gris whenever you raise your eyes or  your camera! The lakes are all with different kinds of Blue; the peaks are all with different kinds of Grey!  However, the most amazing sight is one of those summer nights - when the peaks are shined upon by the moonlight, making it Los Torres del Paine (The Towers of Blue)!

South America - Chile Torres del Paine, Cleopatra's 'Blue' Needles

I was very tired after so many days of traveling and trekking since the long journey crossing the Strait of Magellan.  Yet, a 6pm bus back from El Chalten and arrived El Calafate at 11pm, another 5am bus the next morning.  I felf a bit "zombie-nized" as I headed to bed.

The first thing to learn about anyone who works for the Chileano, they will always be earlier than stated. The bus came to pick me up first, 30 mins early, and then another 6 Argentinean. There we headed off to Nacional Parque Torres del Paine (Towers of Blue).

I most likely the first person among all my friends in Malaysia who came to know about Torres del Paine.  Everyone I talked to reacted - uh...where?

In 2004, my sister Evelyn bought me a book as a Christmas present, titled "The 50 Places You Must Go in Your Lifetime".  Torres del Paine is 26 on the list.  The day I read about the Tehuelche, the way they couldn't use a more appropriate word "Paine" to describe this place, I felt the journey. Well, not surprisingly "Paine" means "Blue". Due to the number of glaciers on the Patagonia Ice Field, the lakes and the rivers contain a rich amount of minerals.  On top, a type of algea grows in the lake making the water presents a different kind of Blue.  It can, especially, see in Lago Pehoe.

The trip to Torres del Paine was my second crossing to Chile, but first to visit. It was also my time to learn how expensive thing is in this country, everything.

As we crossed the border, it was drizzling with cold rain and a cloudy sky.  It was not a good day for photography.  But nothing can conceal the beauty of this Biosphere Reserve. As we entered the national park, the bus stop in front of the Laguna Amarga.  We were so joyous that I couldn't help but to join for my one and only one group photo.

with 6 sweet Argentinean "youth" and Los Cuernos (background)
Laguna Amarga, Torres del Paine
Chile, Apr 2010.

Our guide is a serious Chileano.  From here, he leaded us to a non-stop hours of trekking.  Even though he is a huge fellow with a beer belly, he walked really fast and all of us were having problem catching up and breathless.  After an hour of trekking, we arrived at the Mirador Cuernos and Nordenskjold. Los Cuernos and Paine Grande revealed themselves to show why these 3000M granite spires are globetrotter's Kubla Khan.

Los Cuernos - Torres del Paine, Chile Apr 2010.

Paine Grande - Torres del Paine, Chile Apr 2010.

Paine Medio - Torres del Paine, Chile Apr 2010.

Now, you probably have not imagined yet how big is this biosphere reserve under UNESCO, imagine now 181000 Hectares of forest and nature.  Many comes with admiration, but there were 3 incidents that trekkers burned down 150KM, 155KM and 128KM square of park respectively over the year in 1985, 2005 and recently in 2011.

So, if you love nature, please do not start another fire so that whoever due to come to trek the 250KM of tracks gets to enjoy the serenity here!

South America - Argentina Los Glaciares, Monte Fitz Roy in Style

Within the Patagonia Ice Field, other than Perito Moreno Glacier, you might find thousands other things intriguing and it is never possible to do it all nor to tell all!

For me in a short trip of 3 months, I always used the top 3 rule.  Thus, this was how the agenda goes - Los Glaciares Nacional Parque, Monte Fitz Roy and Torres del Paine!

After spending my day with Perito Moreno, I also spent another day cruising the Lago Argentino.  The cruise was from 8am-3pm, and it took us out a full route around the lake to see every single other glacier.  Of course, also the Mighty Upsala!

Glaciar Upsala at Lago Argentino - Argentino, Apr 2010.

Ice broken off from Upsala

Ice broken off from Upsala

Sadly, Glaciar Upsala had a huge ice tounge broken off a couple months before my visit causing the cruise couldn't go near it. However, the broken ice tounge did allow us to look inside what is really in a glacier.  Those icy ice are mesmerizing!

The day I was going to El Chalten, I kept telling myself that I am going for the charm!

I don't know why I had that in my mind.
The journey to El Chalten goes along the Lago Viedma. Having another glacier at the backdrop of this lake, making it another nice ride to be with.
El Chalten is located within the national park, thus, living here is bounded by the park's rules. The bus must stop at the park ranger office and we all must get a briefing before entering the town. El Chalten is a nice little town, really little - with only 1 main street, no network, no WiFi. To be connected, it was 12peso/hr, most expensive online I ever did. The passion is burning in the air, as you will not be here if you are not either a hiker, a trekker or a climber. People are the most friendly. So, there is no surprise to see plenty of equipments and people walking by/to the trails. They all look professional, for the very reason.

On the way to the hostel, I saw a little shop - a microbrewery, which I read wrongly that I thought is a place for berry jam. I ended up sitting down for a late lunch. The little eatery is quite international as they have a board full of foreign currency notes - the climbers from all over the world. The waitress did not speak English, but I managed to order an orange juice and a non-cheese non-cream home-make flat pasta (look like our home made pan mee kasar) with tomato cooked with olive oil. The orange juice was so huge, fresh and so nice - it was the first time a fresh squeeze orange juice in the menu. The pasta turned out to be very tasty and it was the best I had in Argentina.

As the wind got stronger and the multiple day activities causing me to be so tire that I headed to bed in no time. Fortunately, the shower was with good hot water!
Waking up the next day as I must do some forms of hiking, the weather was really nice and sunny, no rain and no wind. So, I headed out for the Laguna Capri trail. Laguna Capri trail is the one headed to Monte Fitz Roy, with a very nice view of all the peaks.

I must be the first one headed out since the trail was empty and quiet.  It was a very pleasant hiking trail. An hour later, I saw El Chalten in full view, what a beauty!

El Chalten - Argentina, Apr 2010.

The valley is not deep, may be 200 meters, and the ascending is not steep. It is a well marked trail for even simple hiker or first timer. El Chalten's trails are all friendly trails. It has no sign of dangerous hike, all are with orange markers. Not far, I saw the sign of 10 more minutes to the Laguna Capri signpost. Passing through the forest that started to turn red, in a very short while, I saw Monte Fitz Roy in view.

Monte Fitz Roy - Argentina, Apr 2010.

At that moment as I saw Monte Fitz Roy, I thought in calm that nature set us for a challenge. The straight up and solid granite wall is nothing near but a climber's dream. I am no fanatic climber but a soft hiker. Coming to El Chalten is something at first I thought is a mistake because it felt highly pressurized in the middle of a group of ego climbers.
But, it is a fascinating view as described by the park ranger. It is like you have a painting just raised up right before you. The stunning thing is like it comes out of noway and faces the deep valley. I was just happy and sit there for an hour, staring at the beautiful view and enjoyed my lunch - apple and biscuit! 

The wind seemed to pick up after noon. I got back to the hostel, had a quick meal, and headed right back to my room. Tired and cold, I just sleep! 

Waking up in joy, I went for a walk and back to the park ranger office since I remembered there are 2 short trails, Los Condores and Las Aguilas; going up the opposite direction from the town, with the canyon at the back, in which where the Viedma Glaciar located. The trails turned out to be very steep up around 1000 meters.

The first trail leaded up closed to the highway and can see everything in the town.

The second trail headed to the back and passed a flat plain. There were two folks already up there, sitting by the rock, looking like going to stay for very long just to enjoy the quietness and solitary. I suddenly felt like an outsider. 

It was very windy and cold up there! I also enjoyed the quietness and solitary since the canyon was right before me down 1000 meters. It was looking into the horizon. 

After a while, it was getting too cold with a strong wind so I started my descend. 

I had to catch the 6pm bus back to El Calafate and then, the early 5am bus to go to Torres del Paine! 

The two folks were still sitting there.