Within the Patagonia Ice Field, other than Perito Moreno Glacier, you might find thousands other things intriguing and it is never possible to do it all nor to tell all!
For me in a short trip of 3 months, I always used the top 3 rule. Thus, this was how the agenda goes - Los Glaciares Nacional Parque, Monte Fitz Roy and Torres del Paine!
After spending my day with Perito Moreno, I also spent another day cruising the Lago Argentino. The cruise was from 8am-3pm, and it took us out a full route around the lake to see every single other glacier. Of course, also the Mighty Upsala!
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| Glaciar Upsala at Lago Argentino - Argentino, Apr 2010. |
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| Ice broken off from Upsala |
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| Ice broken off from Upsala |
Sadly, Glaciar Upsala had a huge ice tounge broken off a couple months before my visit causing the cruise couldn't go near it. However, the broken ice tounge did allow us to look inside what is really in a glacier. Those icy ice are mesmerizing!
The day I was going to El Chalten, I kept telling myself that I am going for the charm!
I don't know why I had that in my mind.
The journey to El Chalten goes along the Lago Viedma. Having another glacier at the backdrop of this lake, making it another nice ride to be with.
El Chalten is located within the national park, thus, living here is bounded by the park's rules. The bus must stop at the park ranger office and we all must get a briefing before entering the town. El Chalten is a nice little town, really little - with only 1 main street, no network, no WiFi. To be connected, it was 12peso/hr, most expensive online I ever did. The passion is burning in the air, as you will not be here if you are not either a hiker, a trekker or a climber. People are the most friendly. So, there is no surprise to see plenty of equipments and people walking by/to the trails. They all look professional, for the very reason.
On the way to the hostel, I saw a little shop - a microbrewery, which I read wrongly that I thought is a place for berry jam. I ended up sitting down for a late lunch. The little eatery is quite international as they have a board full of foreign currency notes - the climbers from all over the world. The waitress did not speak English, but I managed to order an orange juice and a non-cheese non-cream home-make flat pasta (look like our home made pan mee kasar) with tomato cooked with olive oil. The orange juice was so huge, fresh and so nice - it was the first time a fresh squeeze orange juice in the menu. The pasta turned out to be very tasty and it was the best I had in Argentina.
As the wind got stronger and the multiple day activities causing me to be so tire that I headed to bed in no time. Fortunately, the shower was with good hot water!
Waking up the next day as I must do some forms of hiking, the weather was really nice and sunny, no rain and no wind. So, I headed out for the Laguna Capri trail. Laguna Capri trail is the one headed to Monte Fitz Roy, with a very nice view of all the peaks.
I must be the first one headed out since the trail was empty and quiet. It was a very pleasant hiking trail. An hour later, I saw El Chalten in full view, what a beauty!
The journey to El Chalten goes along the Lago Viedma. Having another glacier at the backdrop of this lake, making it another nice ride to be with.
El Chalten is located within the national park, thus, living here is bounded by the park's rules. The bus must stop at the park ranger office and we all must get a briefing before entering the town. El Chalten is a nice little town, really little - with only 1 main street, no network, no WiFi. To be connected, it was 12peso/hr, most expensive online I ever did. The passion is burning in the air, as you will not be here if you are not either a hiker, a trekker or a climber. People are the most friendly. So, there is no surprise to see plenty of equipments and people walking by/to the trails. They all look professional, for the very reason.
On the way to the hostel, I saw a little shop - a microbrewery, which I read wrongly that I thought is a place for berry jam. I ended up sitting down for a late lunch. The little eatery is quite international as they have a board full of foreign currency notes - the climbers from all over the world. The waitress did not speak English, but I managed to order an orange juice and a non-cheese non-cream home-make flat pasta (look like our home made pan mee kasar) with tomato cooked with olive oil. The orange juice was so huge, fresh and so nice - it was the first time a fresh squeeze orange juice in the menu. The pasta turned out to be very tasty and it was the best I had in Argentina.
As the wind got stronger and the multiple day activities causing me to be so tire that I headed to bed in no time. Fortunately, the shower was with good hot water!
Waking up the next day as I must do some forms of hiking, the weather was really nice and sunny, no rain and no wind. So, I headed out for the Laguna Capri trail. Laguna Capri trail is the one headed to Monte Fitz Roy, with a very nice view of all the peaks.
I must be the first one headed out since the trail was empty and quiet. It was a very pleasant hiking trail. An hour later, I saw El Chalten in full view, what a beauty!
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| El Chalten - Argentina, Apr 2010. |
The valley
is not deep, may be 200 meters, and the ascending is not steep. It is a
well marked trail for even simple hiker or first timer. El Chalten's trails are
all friendly trails. It has no sign of dangerous hike, all are with
orange markers. Not far, I saw the sign of 10 more minutes to the Laguna Capri signpost. Passing through the forest that started to turn red, in a very short while, I saw
Monte Fitz Roy in view.
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| Monte Fitz Roy - Argentina, Apr 2010. |
At that moment as I saw Monte Fitz Roy, I
thought in calm that nature set us for a challenge. The straight up and solid
granite wall is nothing near but a climber's dream. I am no fanatic
climber but a soft hiker. Coming to El Chalten is something at first I thought
is a mistake because it felt highly pressurized in the middle of a group of ego climbers.
But, it is a fascinating view as described by the park ranger. It is like you have a painting just raised up right before you. The stunning thing is like it comes out of noway and faces the deep valley. I was just happy and sit there for an hour, staring at the beautiful view and enjoyed my lunch - apple and biscuit!
But, it is a fascinating view as described by the park ranger. It is like you have a painting just raised up right before you. The stunning thing is like it comes out of noway and faces the deep valley. I was just happy and sit there for an hour, staring at the beautiful view and enjoyed my lunch - apple and biscuit!
The wind seemed to pick up after noon. I got back to the hostel, had a quick meal,
and headed right back to my room. Tired and cold, I just sleep!
Waking up in joy, I went for a walk and back to the park ranger office since I remembered there are 2 short trails, Los Condores and
Las Aguilas; going up the opposite direction from the town, with the
canyon at the back, in which where the Viedma Glaciar located. The trails turned out to be very steep up around 1000 meters.
The first trail leaded up
closed to the highway and can see everything in the town.
The second trail headed to the back and passed a flat plain. There were two folks already up there,
sitting by the rock, looking like going to stay for very long just to enjoy the
quietness and solitary. I suddenly felt like an outsider.
It was very windy and cold up there! I also enjoyed the quietness and solitary
since the canyon was right before me down 1000 meters. It was looking into the horizon.
After a while, it was getting too cold
with a strong wind so I started my descend.
I had to catch the 6pm bus back to El Calafate and then, the early 5am bus to go to Torres del Paine!
The two folks were still sitting
there.
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