South America - Chile Santiago, a place I heard too many bad things about

The bus took the montana tour road, passing through tunnels that hanging in the middle of the Andes.

Andes Crossing, Chile - May2010.

Avanlanch Tunnel, Chile - May2010.

That was my fourth crossing to Chile, one through the Magellanes Strait, one through the Patagonia, one through the temperate zone of Andes.  This one was through the montana of Andes. The difference of the two is one was green, forestry with cool climate and one was brown dry sandy mountain. 

Transandine Railway, May 2010.

The road is winding up and winding down. The road passed through many points where the Transandine Railway is visible, even though it has long abandon due to the politics between Chile and Argentina. It was easily to notice that Chile's side of the mountain is steeper, thus, hard to build road.  But, the Chile's side of the road is so much better than the Argentinean's side.  It is not hard to notice that Chile infrastructure is more equipped and better in construction.  It comes with the better economy and also the heritage. Chileno are mostly German descendent and Argentinean are mostly Italian descendent.  Chile has the best economy in South America and it's living standard is or higher than those in Europe.

The bus passed by a major area of vineyard and arrived Santiago early. The day was Labour Day and I forgot about the public holiday. When the bus pulled into Santiago terminal, I noticed everything was closed and there was a huge strike on the street. If we thought Buenos Aires has a culture of constant demonstration, then Santiago people consider strike as a regular life. The streets were so empty.  But it seem it was a known strike, the shop windows were pre-covered with wood so that spray wouldn't hit the glass window. This was actually the very first strike on the education system in which is still proceeding with more strikes till now.

The hostal door tells me that crime is frequent in Santiago and the street tells me that vandalism is a common thing with violent protest.  I didn't like Santiago at my first look. The very first feeling in Santiago was I did not feel safe! For the first time after 5 weeks of travel, I did not feel safe in this city.  And I could see why.  It is just felt like a city in chaos, everything! Also, it is not hard to feel Chileno are mostly opportunists.  I guess after the country almost fully privatised, life has been difficult and tough.  Thus, Chileno took all the opportunities to make a buck as they can.  The money changer in the border crossing, the guide in Torres del Paine, the driver there, the taxi driver in Santiago, the guest house in Santiago and later the hotel in Easter Island and San Pedro de Atacama, they were all seemed to make the most out of the tourists. The taxi driver in Santiago made me so afraid they will drive away with my luggage that I took it with me to the door of the hostel while he stopped far away. I asked myself, why he had to stop at the other side of the street.  My sense of security just couldn't get it.

I would have to say there only nice place I found in Chile is Puerto Varas - the hostel, the supermarket, the bus driver. They are so different from the rest of Chile.

The hostel in Santiago was filthy dirty, noisy and expensive! Many slops and drunks. The pollution in Santiago was extreme.  Sitting like a bowl, I had not seen Sun till noon everyday. I guess we don't find excellent infrastructure in Argentina, but for the past 5 weeks, the air was extremely fresh and the water was crystal clear and drinkable. That is the credit we have to give it to the Argentinean. Argentinean done much less damage to the mother earth compare to all.  The air quality in Santiago is unbearable.

Santiago, sitting like a bowl, Chile - May 2010.

The next day, I met a French pair at the breakfast and ended up spending the whole day with them. We went to the bus station to buy bus ticket, theirs to Buenos Aires and mine to Valparaiso. Then, we went to the fish market and eat a seafood palella for lunch. They were looking for an artesian stall place.  I ended up bringing them to the right place. The French, interestingly, taught me some very usable local language and how to take subway. I had a nice time with them. I went to San Cristobal Hill by myself in the evening. In South America, Catholism is firmly rooted. It shown clearly on San Cristobal Hill.

Tram up San Cristobal, Santiago

Tram up San Cristobal, Santiago

San Cristobal, Santiago, Chile - May 2010.

South America - Argentina Mendoza, Land of Sun and good Wine

Somehow or rather, even though the lake region was highly recommended and popular among Argentinean or in South America, I was not that impressed. I guess after the wonderful times in the Penguin Land, End of the World and the Glaciers, the lake region seems a bit plain except Puerto Varas was nice and quiet.

At such, I was having high hope for Mendoza.

I took a night bus from Bariloche to Mendoza, 20 hours. Any bus rides in Argentina are around that long. At Bariloche bus terminal, a bottle of mineral water cost 5 peso for 500ml and 15 peso for 1500ml. Also, two small Cadbury cost 15 peso, the most expensive I ever seen. Sometimes, it also depends on the colour of my face, not just the farang has to pay more in the east but the chica also has to pay more in the west, same theory.
The bus was very comfortable, but I just couldn't sleep.  I no longer can sleep on night bus or train, I just need a comfy bed.

Mendoza is called the Malbec Land, not surprisingly why. It produces 80% of Argentinean grapes, thus, Argentine wines. And that 80% are consumed in Argentina alone. It shows how much Argentinean likes to drink. Most the wines here are German in heritage, strong fermentation and lot of yeast smell, not exactly my taste but that is how Argentinean like it.
With the wine, Mendoza becomes a party town at night. Visitors love it here but it is noisy to me.
However, if you take the time to walk the street in the morning, Mendoza is a beautiful 'suburb' with the grid concept. Every house is a little bungalow, with a little porch and a little garden. It is just a perfect pictureque, very livable city.

The down side for me was I had two, not one, bad hostel experience here. The Dama Juana hostel screwed up my booking and pretentious on their innocence and the Itaka hostel was filthy dirty with a smelly bathroom. The screw up in the Dama Juana hostel spoiled the day, however, I didn't really like the wine anyway. As Mendoza is turning into a party town, foreign visitors especially the young group is dominating the scene.

The next day or so I had taken a Montana Tour. I had visited the Aconcagua National Park, the little bit left over of the ancient Inka bridge and the old Pass for crossing to Chile.

Mt. Aconcagua (with a hanging Moon), Argentina - Apr 2010.

The Old Pass at 4000M

The New Border Custom

Nothing impressive, I seen higher and prettier mountain, I had later went over higher Pass at 5200M in Bolivia and trekked the 'real' Inka Trail in Peru. Save your money and drink more wine.

Beautiful Art Pieces, Argentina - Apr, 2010.

For all that I don't like about this place, I saw these beautiful art pieces in the little bazaar we passed by to see the Inka bridge.  I got myself 3 pieces to bring home.

The day after, accidentally, I went to the Cacheuta thermal bath by public bus and into the public thermal pool.  This act saved me lot of money and enjoyed the thermal bath with the regular Argentinean, which I thought was the most fantastic time I had in Mendoza.

I left Mendoza on the Labour Day, feeling the un-necessary 4 days stop over, and promised myself I shall not be back. The bus took me on the same journey as the Montana tour but this time I was crossing to Chile and heading to Santiago.