South America - Chile Valparaiso, the charisma one

The day after, I was off to Valparaiso. Arriving Valparaiso in the late morning, I was impressed by this coastal town a lot more than Santiago. Buenos Aires has La Boca, Santiago has Valparaiso. To my surprise, Valparaiso is a lovely city and I will recommend everyone to come and visit. It is a colourful enclave along the coast with a lot of unique artistic wall paintings.

Colourful street painting, Valparaiso, Chile - May 2010.

I walked most of the recommended places. The Ascensor Concepcion was one of the most interesting ride you can ever take with a scary sound.

Ascensor Concepcion, Valparaiso, Chile - May 2010.

Another beautiful place to explore is the Paseo de Atkinson, with some fine restaurant around.

Paseo de Atkinson, Valparaiso, Chile - May 2010.

I packed and went back to Santiago the evening, as there was an early flight to Easter Island the day after.

South America - Chile Santiago, extra!

As much as the dark side of Santiago, the city is old, with experience.

We can't deny Santiago for some of the famous stuff - the Ballet, the Fish Market with excellent food, the Craft Market where you can get the beautiful Lapis Lazuli, etc.

But, most interesting of all, Santiago has some the following which I have not expected.

Fast food street, Santiago, Chile - May 2010.

I did not remember when did I last had a hot dog. As there are so many hot dog stalls here, I got so excited so I ordered one. But, with my "porqueto espanyol", and...I got a hot dog with avocado, lot of mayo, tomato, all smashed together. Never ever ate a hot dog like this, but it was interesting to eat this so called Italiano Hotdog.

Forex street, Santiago, Chile - May 2010.

I was heading to Bolivia next, so I need some Boliviano. So, I found this Forex street. The whole 2 blocks are all foreign currency changers, with each specializes in different currencies. The only thing I would wish for is the consistency of the exchange rate. However, I was with no luck, it is not like Malaysia. It seems the exchange rate is not regulated.

The last has to be the most famous building in the whole Santiago.

Palacio de la Moneda, Santiago, Chile - May 2010.

The Palacio de la Moneda, this is one colonial building in Santiago you must take a picture. This Presidencial Palace is where the bloody coup of Pinochet happened in 1973, putting Chile into the darkest history for 17 years. Even Chile was back to a democratic system since 1980, but there are many social issues left over from colonialism and the period of military ruling. These social issues can practically be felt when I walked on the street - the gap of rich to poor, the ignored basic need of the people, the anger of the students with the expensive but least quality education system. It seems to me there is no middle class in this country, the rich rules and controls everything. 

South America - Chile Santiago, a place I heard too many bad things about

The bus took the montana tour road, passing through tunnels that hanging in the middle of the Andes.

Andes Crossing, Chile - May2010.

Avanlanch Tunnel, Chile - May2010.

That was my fourth crossing to Chile, one through the Magellanes Strait, one through the Patagonia, one through the temperate zone of Andes.  This one was through the montana of Andes. The difference of the two is one was green, forestry with cool climate and one was brown dry sandy mountain. 

Transandine Railway, May 2010.

The road is winding up and winding down. The road passed through many points where the Transandine Railway is visible, even though it has long abandon due to the politics between Chile and Argentina. It was easily to notice that Chile's side of the mountain is steeper, thus, hard to build road.  But, the Chile's side of the road is so much better than the Argentinean's side.  It is not hard to notice that Chile infrastructure is more equipped and better in construction.  It comes with the better economy and also the heritage. Chileno are mostly German descendent and Argentinean are mostly Italian descendent.  Chile has the best economy in South America and it's living standard is or higher than those in Europe.

The bus passed by a major area of vineyard and arrived Santiago early. The day was Labour Day and I forgot about the public holiday. When the bus pulled into Santiago terminal, I noticed everything was closed and there was a huge strike on the street. If we thought Buenos Aires has a culture of constant demonstration, then Santiago people consider strike as a regular life. The streets were so empty.  But it seem it was a known strike, the shop windows were pre-covered with wood so that spray wouldn't hit the glass window. This was actually the very first strike on the education system in which is still proceeding with more strikes till now.

The hostal door tells me that crime is frequent in Santiago and the street tells me that vandalism is a common thing with violent protest.  I didn't like Santiago at my first look. The very first feeling in Santiago was I did not feel safe! For the first time after 5 weeks of travel, I did not feel safe in this city.  And I could see why.  It is just felt like a city in chaos, everything! Also, it is not hard to feel Chileno are mostly opportunists.  I guess after the country almost fully privatised, life has been difficult and tough.  Thus, Chileno took all the opportunities to make a buck as they can.  The money changer in the border crossing, the guide in Torres del Paine, the driver there, the taxi driver in Santiago, the guest house in Santiago and later the hotel in Easter Island and San Pedro de Atacama, they were all seemed to make the most out of the tourists. The taxi driver in Santiago made me so afraid they will drive away with my luggage that I took it with me to the door of the hostel while he stopped far away. I asked myself, why he had to stop at the other side of the street.  My sense of security just couldn't get it.

I would have to say there only nice place I found in Chile is Puerto Varas - the hostel, the supermarket, the bus driver. They are so different from the rest of Chile.

The hostel in Santiago was filthy dirty, noisy and expensive! Many slops and drunks. The pollution in Santiago was extreme.  Sitting like a bowl, I had not seen Sun till noon everyday. I guess we don't find excellent infrastructure in Argentina, but for the past 5 weeks, the air was extremely fresh and the water was crystal clear and drinkable. That is the credit we have to give it to the Argentinean. Argentinean done much less damage to the mother earth compare to all.  The air quality in Santiago is unbearable.

Santiago, sitting like a bowl, Chile - May 2010.

The next day, I met a French pair at the breakfast and ended up spending the whole day with them. We went to the bus station to buy bus ticket, theirs to Buenos Aires and mine to Valparaiso. Then, we went to the fish market and eat a seafood palella for lunch. They were looking for an artesian stall place.  I ended up bringing them to the right place. The French, interestingly, taught me some very usable local language and how to take subway. I had a nice time with them. I went to San Cristobal Hill by myself in the evening. In South America, Catholism is firmly rooted. It shown clearly on San Cristobal Hill.

Tram up San Cristobal, Santiago

Tram up San Cristobal, Santiago

San Cristobal, Santiago, Chile - May 2010.

South America - Argentina Mendoza, Land of Sun and good Wine

Somehow or rather, even though the lake region was highly recommended and popular among Argentinean or in South America, I was not that impressed. I guess after the wonderful times in the Penguin Land, End of the World and the Glaciers, the lake region seems a bit plain except Puerto Varas was nice and quiet.

At such, I was having high hope for Mendoza.

I took a night bus from Bariloche to Mendoza, 20 hours. Any bus rides in Argentina are around that long. At Bariloche bus terminal, a bottle of mineral water cost 5 peso for 500ml and 15 peso for 1500ml. Also, two small Cadbury cost 15 peso, the most expensive I ever seen. Sometimes, it also depends on the colour of my face, not just the farang has to pay more in the east but the chica also has to pay more in the west, same theory.
The bus was very comfortable, but I just couldn't sleep.  I no longer can sleep on night bus or train, I just need a comfy bed.

Mendoza is called the Malbec Land, not surprisingly why. It produces 80% of Argentinean grapes, thus, Argentine wines. And that 80% are consumed in Argentina alone. It shows how much Argentinean likes to drink. Most the wines here are German in heritage, strong fermentation and lot of yeast smell, not exactly my taste but that is how Argentinean like it.
With the wine, Mendoza becomes a party town at night. Visitors love it here but it is noisy to me.
However, if you take the time to walk the street in the morning, Mendoza is a beautiful 'suburb' with the grid concept. Every house is a little bungalow, with a little porch and a little garden. It is just a perfect pictureque, very livable city.

The down side for me was I had two, not one, bad hostel experience here. The Dama Juana hostel screwed up my booking and pretentious on their innocence and the Itaka hostel was filthy dirty with a smelly bathroom. The screw up in the Dama Juana hostel spoiled the day, however, I didn't really like the wine anyway. As Mendoza is turning into a party town, foreign visitors especially the young group is dominating the scene.

The next day or so I had taken a Montana Tour. I had visited the Aconcagua National Park, the little bit left over of the ancient Inka bridge and the old Pass for crossing to Chile.

Mt. Aconcagua (with a hanging Moon), Argentina - Apr 2010.

The Old Pass at 4000M

The New Border Custom

Nothing impressive, I seen higher and prettier mountain, I had later went over higher Pass at 5200M in Bolivia and trekked the 'real' Inka Trail in Peru. Save your money and drink more wine.

Beautiful Art Pieces, Argentina - Apr, 2010.

For all that I don't like about this place, I saw these beautiful art pieces in the little bazaar we passed by to see the Inka bridge.  I got myself 3 pieces to bring home.

The day after, accidentally, I went to the Cacheuta thermal bath by public bus and into the public thermal pool.  This act saved me lot of money and enjoyed the thermal bath with the regular Argentinean, which I thought was the most fantastic time I had in Mendoza.

I left Mendoza on the Labour Day, feeling the un-necessary 4 days stop over, and promised myself I shall not be back. The bus took me on the same journey as the Montana tour but this time I was crossing to Chile and heading to Santiago.

South America - Chile Puerto Varas, the most beautiful town

I arrived Portal del Sur at 1930pm, met Maria, an absolutely hyper energetic lady who worked there. She put me into a cozy room. One thing in Chile is that there is no electric heater. All the houses are heated by the old chimmy type of wood burning heater. Around the heater, everything is warm and cozy, further from it is cold and freezing. That is how it is in Portal del Sur. Other than that, everything was nice and warming, just like another home. The bed is supremely comfy, a very equip kitchen, cozy living room and spacious dining room. Derek and I decided to cook our dinner. So, we went out to the supermarket and we were happy to see the fresh produces and all the things we could get there. It was my first cook in the trip, turned out I cooked all our subsequent dinners for the next 3 days here.

I was intended to do nothing after 3 weeks of non-stop travelling, trekking and hiking. I was tired and time to rest, thus, I was thinking to spend some nice and peaceful days here. It was also good to type my diary, upload my photos for friends back home. Puerto Varas somehow became the right place to do nothing other than cook, write and relax. 
During the journey crossing the Andes, the guide told us that Puerto Varas is named the Most Beatiful Town in Chile. I see why the next day. It was sunny and Mt.Osorno showed its clear cone from the east side by the lake.

Mt.Osorno, Chile - Apr 2010.

I walked down to the lakeshore and enjoyed the peace and quiet morning under the sun.

Puerto Varas, Chile - Apr 2010.

Puerto Varas, Chile - Apr 2010.

Puerto Varas, Chile - Apr 2010.

Puerto Varas, Chile - Apr 2010.

After sitting there till almost noon, I went to the apple pie shop. Maria recommended me to try the apple pie in one of the cafes, it was nice. A day passed by in calm and peace. The subsequent day was cloudy, but even more peaceful with nothing happening. The only thing was I got so into cooking, I started this habbit of cooking in every stop which I could. It was late Autumn, Puerto Varas is a bit cold, but peaceful and pretty. I had 3 good rest days here.

After 3 simple and peaceful days in Puerto Varas, the next destination to head to was Mendoza - land of Sun and good Wine!

Heater in Portal del Sur, Chile - Apr 2010.

Smaller Heater, Portal del Sur.

Bedroom, Portal del Sur.

Nelly + Melisa in the Kitchen, Portal del Sur.

Dining Room, Portal del Sur.

Living Room, Portal del Sur.

Information Centre, Portal del Sur.

South America - Crossing the Andes I, through the lake region

The popular journey, crossing over the Andes, with a combination of lake crossings plus land transfers (bus-boat, boat-bus) from Bariloche to Puerto Varas is what recommended to all tourists. So, I be a tourist for a day, cruise down to Chile!

This is my second crossing of border to Chile, first is crossing the Strait of Megellanes.

This journey is highly recommended, but I thought it is a bit of hard-sale and expensive. It started early in the morning when the guide brought us to Puerto Blest and briefed us in short on each stop. It was cloudy and drizzling! I just realized I did not have any good sunny weather in Bariloche at any days at all. My mood was so mashy.

Lago Nahuel Huapi, Argentina - Apr 2010.

The view from the cruise heading to the Chile border on the Andes felt quite normal to me. It took 4 cruises and 3 bus rides to get to Puerto Varas. It took 10 hours. First, we faced the welcome sign of the Chile Parque Nacional Vicente Perez Rosales.

Then, when we turned our head back, we saw the Argentinean side with the Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi.
The highlights were crossing the border on the Andes jungle at 1000M is to see Mt.Orsono from the west side. The scenes give such a nostalgic feeling that I missed home for the 1st time.

Entering Chile Border, Chile - Apr 2010.

As my second crossing of border into Chile, the little town of Peulla is somehow special, even though it is exactly how a border little, little town should be - little immigration office, little basic elementary school, in a little valley, beside a small lake. Just a little Perfect!

Peulla, Chile - Apr 2010.

Peulla, Chile - Apr 2010.

Peulla, Chile - Apr 2010.

Peulla, Chile - Apr 2010.

In the last boat ride, the free stand Osorno volcano makes one felt to bow to its beauty. There was always cloud moving around.

Mt.Osorno, Chile - Apr 2010.

After embarking full to the land, we headed to Peulla waterfall before finishing our journey in Puerto Varas. The day was late, but the guide insisted that we should walk to the waterfall because nothing is like it. From the main entrance, it was 15 minutes walk and the night was really falling. As I got there, I realized the reason is the waterfall is a formation of volcanic action.

Peulla waterfall, Chile - Apr 2010.

Peulla waterfall, Chile - Apr 2010.

South America - Argentina Bariloche, the Seven Lakes road

May it be conincidence, but may be not!

As I almost get to the moment to write about the Seven Lakes road, Jean put The Motorcycle Diaries in front of me and said, a good book to read. It is indeed a good book to read.

Surprisingly, without knowing it, I made the same route just like Ernesto CHE Guevara. The Seven Lakes road was undertaken in the book during the February of 1952.  If you keen to visit Argentina and Chile, you will come to know that "The Lake Region" in these two countries is one of the most scenic region in the countries.  The road, over Argentina side, simply pass by seven lakes and going through towns from San Martin de los Andes, Villa la Angostura to San Carlos de Bariloche. 

You may continue this journey further to Chile though a combination of cruises and rides with multiple lake crossing.  Along this journey, you will see the Isla Victoria, Bosque de Arrayanes,  Peulla waterfall and Osorno volcano from the east where you will reach either Puerto Montt or Puerto Varas.  From here, you actually can take a bus by land road back to San Martin or Bariloche through the towns of Frutillar, Osorno and the Puyehue National Park, making a full circuit of loop.

That is what exactly I done. I went to San Martin and hiked up the mountain, the small is just as described come into full view.

San Martin de los Andes, Argentina - Apr, 2010.

Going back to Bariloche, I passed by Angostura.

Villa la Angostura, Argentina - Apr, 2010.

And of course, I would not be missing the Seven Lakes on the Seven Lakes road.

7 Lakes View, Argentina - Apr 2010.

Hosteria 7 Lagos

7 Lakes View